John & Judi                 Richmond, Virginia	Ireland  Germany Scotland  England Wales

	Thursday - April 29, 2004 Since today was a travel day to move yet again back to another country, we haven't many pictures.  Actually we have one.  =)  We arrived at the ferry, in Wales,  early this morning to sail on the Irish Ferries back to Ireland.  As usual, the ferry had been cancelled.  Instead we made our crossing on Stena-Line - a German owned Ferry Company  - and it was MASSIVE.  I will now commence on my ritual 6 days of Irish Power Shopping before we drive back to Dublin and fly to Germany.  We have decided to base ourselves in Wexford, in the South Eastern part of Ireland.  We will fly to Germany on the 5th of May.  Tomorrow we will leave after breakfast and drive down the road to Waterford - I've got crystal on my mind.  =)  You can bet you'll get more pictures.  It's difficult to provide many on a day when we're changing countries. I have had some thoughts though.  =)  People think when you travel to Europe - it's just a grand vacation.  If you've never left the United States, or worse yet whatever town you live in - you just CANNOT know!  LOL  If you've only traveled in America - you STILL just CANNOT know!  LOL  Take bathrooms for instance.  First you have to FIND one.  Next you have to determine if it is for men or women - or both.  THEN you have to figure out how MANY doors you have to go through before you actually ARRIVE at the throne.  Once you have conquered the throne, you must THEN figure out how to FLUSH to throne.  Is this a one-flusher - a two-flusher - or a three or four flusher?  I kid you not - they all operate differently.  Once you have determined THAT - you have to FIND the flush handle - which is not necessarily in the same location as the throne.  This is a very time consuming venture!  Then you have to turn out the lights that quite likely took you 10 minutes to find when you entered the "Kingdom of the Throne".  Tonight when we went out for dinner - we had to ask more than once what in the WORLD "Joint of the Day" was  - it was a menu item  DEV - HONEST!  We wound up ORDERING "Joint of the Day" -  although we both ate different suppers.  It turned out to be similar to what we might call "Dinner of the Day" - Chef's Choice if you will.  I had a roast beef dinner - John had ham and turkey dinner - the point being - you have to ask everywhere you go - what something is - although DEV would have ordered "Joint of the Day" without hesitation.  LOL You have to know WHAT to plug into WHERE and when NOT to  LOL  We brought converters with us, of course - did they work?  Why OF COURSE NOT!  LOL  Now we have all KINDSA' converters for just about every country on the planet - if you're traveling let me know - I'll let you borrow one.  I'm glad to be back in Ireland - it got old having everyone tell me I looked like Fergie in Great Britain.  It's nice to be home where they just call you "Lamb" and "Pet".  Although the first place we stopped at for lunch today, the cashier asked me if I had a sister named Pauline?  LOLOL  I said no, my sister's name is DEV and I'm an American!  She said you look and talk JUST like Pauline!  I LOVE being back in Ireland where there are cars and people all over the road - in total chaos - mindless of  traffic laws - if there are any - I got tired of the Brits asking me about Iraq.  An OLD OLD lady cornered me in the TOP of a castle - she was a castle guild there - and said:  You're American?  I said - Why, of course.  She said:  "Tell me what you think of Iraq"  I said:  "I don't THINK about Iraq - I'm on vacation."  She said:  "I think it was quite ill planned."  I said:  "Well, my father did the best he could - he's quite busy running the United States - and I applaud every decision he makes - including changing his socks."  She didn't ask me anymore.  LOLOL  Love to fool with the Brits.  For now - I'm gone - John is wondering when I'll stop this lyrical nonsense and give him back the computer.  Tomorrow MORE Ireland - and GORGEOUS crystal and other assundry things!  WE LOVE YOU ALL!
	Friday - April 30, 2004 Our main interest in this area was the Waterford Crystal Factory, but we wanted to see a few other sites the area provides while we are here.  This is also the home of The Kennedy Homestead.  The Kennedy Homestead celebrates the story of five generations of the family dynasty, a story of epic proportions, full of triumph and tragedy.  The centre traces the family history of those who stayed behind and those who left Dunganstown on an immigrant ship to the slums of Boston and from the English Court of St. James to the Camelot days at the White House. Birthplace of the Great Grandfather of President John F. Kennedy, the Homestead is closed this time of year, but John and I still wanted to make the trip and see for ourselves where the Kennedy roots were in Ireland.  The Homestead itself is the small multicolored stone cottage behind the Homestead sign.  When President Kennedy visited the site, he said:  "I was glad to be here, it took me 115 years to make this trip and 6,000 miles and 3 generations.  I'm proud to be here."  I was also proud to be there and to know he had been there before me.
	Friday - April 30, 2004 We became hopelessly lost today (as usual - lol) and happened upon Dunbrody Castle while searching for a Botannical Garden, a bathroom, and an Abby - not necessarily in that order.  LOL  After Wales, a picture of the castle from the road was about all I wanted to see of it!  John said:  "Oh great - another castle!!!!"
	Friday - April 30, 2004 We stopped in Waterford for a light lunch before going out to the Waterford Center.  John can't be trusted with a camera - you put it in his hands and you'll have non-stop pictures of ME.  He always catches me at my best too.  NOT!  LOL
	Friday - April 30, 2004 Waterford - what CAN one say about Waterford???  If you ever get a chance to come to Waterford, Ireland - you really should see this place - the words and pictures can barely describe the splendor of the Waterford Crystal Factory.  And today - they have free shippnig if you spend over 200 Euro!  I really believe I can do that!!! This is a solid Waterford Crystal Mailbox I am standing beside - almost as big as me.  Absolutely and positively amazing - no, it's not for sale  - if it were even "The Donald" would feel the pinch, I'm sure. John takes a photo opportunity standing next to the largest wine goblet I have ever seen in my life!  Is this magnificent????????  Even "The John" was quite impressed! I would give a FEW eye teeth to own this gorgeous harp - alas, I'll have to settle for just being allowed to play it for a few.  What an ingenious work of art.  Anybody have a light????  S P E C T A C U L A R !!!  First you would have to have a ceiling that would support this weight.  Secondly, you'd have to have the income to buy small countries.  They are magnificent.
	Friday - April 30, 2004 Purchase a passenger contract ticket, dated 18th of March, 1849, and follow the footsteps of a group of Famine Emigrants bound for New York.  Find on board a database of 2.5 million individual passages of Irish Immigrants to the United States from 1845-1880 from  all ports in Britain and Ireland.  Encounter Captain Williams or a member of his crew and talk to some of his passengers telling their harrowing stories of being forced to emigrate.  This is the fabulous replica of a Potato Famine Emigrant Ship in the Dunbrody Harbor.  Hard to imagine what they experienced.  Just across the street from this ship is Martha's Vineyard (Kennedy's Bar) - and it tickled my fancy to see it there - I thought you would enjoy a picture of it also.  Waterford, and the surrounding areas, are really delightful - but my heart is still in County Mayo - the other side of Ireland.  That's it for today - we'll see what adventures tomorrow brings.  Until then - we're thinking of you all - and hoping you're enjoying your virtual trip with us.
	Saturday - May 1, 2004 We've had a wonderful day today as you'll see.  The weather today is beautiful - a little brisk - still need a jacket - but clear, blue skies and sunny - a nice change.  =)  We began our day with a quiet breakfast all alone in a dining room - and then off to town we went to find John a barber.  We found a little shop that was as busy as it could be - called "Snip It" - they had four barber chairs just going strong and they were a bit put off by having a woman in the shop.  I think in Ireland the barber shops are a sort of "men's club" - they just didn't know what to think of me there.  One of the barbers said:  "Ok Lass you're next!"  I said, "Ummmmmmmm I don't think so!"  From there we found a Laundrette and did our laundry and then a quick visit to the Internet Cafe to get pictures home for you guys.
	Saturday - May 1, 2004 We then headed out to the Irish National Heritage Park.  The Irish National Heritage Park depicts mans settlement in Ireland from 7000 BC to the arrial of the Normans in the 12th Century.  We strolled through the walking Park with its homesteads, places of ritual, burial modes and long forgotten remains.  We saw images of sights dating back almost 9000 years.  The first clearing showed us a Campsite (The Stone Age 7000-2000 BC) for hunters and gatherers from the Mesolithic Period. Next was an early Irish Settlement - also from the Stone Age - this was a typical settlement of the first farmers from the Neolithic Period. This was the inside of one of the farm houses.  I just can't imagine.  There is absolutely NO PLACE to plug in my computer! This is the Portal Tomb or Dolmen - if you have gone through our previous trips to Ireland, you have seen us at Portal Dolmens before.  The large multi-ton stone on the top of the vertical stones was placed there by man - don't ask me HOW - it weighs tons.  The dead were placed inside the dolmen in shrouds - often with food and water to sustain them on their trip into the next life,  During the bronze age, the people learned how to form a rather crude "casket" if you will, out of rock and began the Cist Burials.  The small opening you see at the bottom of the picture is the Cist Burial chamber and the monument at the top is a marker.  Also prominent during the Bronze Age (2000 - 200 BC) were the stone circles.  They can be seen all over Ireland in various locations.  These were considered to be ceremonial grounds. We then advanced into the Celtic/Early Christian Age (500 BC to 1169 AD) which was when they discovered the first hyroglyphic types of markings on rocks such as this.  They normally depicted geographical direction and landmarks - you can see in the picture the markings on the left corner of the stone.  This was called an Ogham Stone. This small village is called a Ringfort.  It was also prominent during the Early Christian Age.  The fence you see in the background would surround the entire little village outside of which there was also a defense moat.  This was the inside of one of the small huts within the Ringfort. An old cart outside one of the huts caught my artistic eye - it was very charming to me - albeit probably not to those who had to use it! This was an early Christian Monastery.  When Christianity came to Ireland from Britain monastaries such as this were commonly found on this beautiful island.  More of the Monastic Village. This is a corn drying kiln.  It was during the Early Christian Age that the people in this land began experimenting with fire.  =)  They would dry their corn in a kiln such as this which provided indirect heat - not open fire which would surely burn the corn. This is a horizontal water mill.  I found this to be rather fascinating - of course it was always located close to a water source - just as this one was housed right next to a river.  This is the inside of the horizontal water mill. This is actually the place where they did their cooking.  The big, rectangular hole you see in the center is filled with water and they would use hot rocks from a fire to boil the water and then cook their meat and their meals.  That would just be IT for me - I'd have to come back when we had skipped several centuries!  It's a wonderful park - not only good for tourists to Ireland - but for the Irish  children and young people themselves - to learn about and appreciate their very own history.
	Saturday - May 1, 2004 We left the Heritage Park and headed out to the Johnstown Castle Gardens.  It was a beautiful day for this as it was also a walking tour.  We were met at the gate by this gorgeous fellow and spent quite a bit of time "visiting" with him.  =) This is a 19th Century turreted castle.  Mr. Peacock - you have a lovely home! Apparently the most recent owner of this auspicious castle found it much to expensive to live here and maintain it properly.  He gave the castle to the Government of Ireland with the demand that the 50 acres which incorporated the castle and the gardens remain in their original condition.  The castle property was turned over to the Department of Agriculture There is an Irish Agricultural Museum on this property which was just TOO boring to consider touring (LOL) and there is a Famine Exhibition at the museum.  This was one of the MASSIVE windows at the side of the castle. There was a lovely waterfall on the grounds - as we walked around the entire castle that bubbled into the man made lake that is also there. The Camillias wre beautiful - both white and red.  I found a  nice resting place in the crotch of a red camillia.  GORGEOUS picture of this beautiful castle from across the lake. I believe I have found the guard's tower - John, as usual - with the camera and what appears to be his favorite subject.
	Saturday - May 1, 2004 After the castle, we journeyed on down the road to Hood Head Peninsula.  Probably the very best part of our very long day.  This was an Abby on the road to Hook Head. I love the Abbys - although they all just about look much alike - this one also happened to have a cemetary - and I found it a wonderful picture opportunity.
	Saturday - May 1, 2004 Hook Head Peninsula is home to Hook Lighthouse, a unique example of an almost intact medievil lighthouse.  It dates from the early 13th Centry and was a major feat at the time of its construction.  It has served sailors and shipping for 800 years, apart from a short closure during the 17th century.  It is one of the oldest operational lighthouses in the entire world.  The low lying Hook Peninsula, which forms the eastern boundary of Waterford Harbour is located in the south-west corner of County Wexford.  It is roughly triangular in shape, about 10 Km in length, and tapers from a 6km base in the north to the narrow southern point.  These are some of the famous blows holes at Hook.  Jood in front of Hook Lighthouse on the beautiful shale. This is a beautiful shot of the seacoast at the base of the Hook Lighthouse.  I believe that Ireland has it ALL.  They have gorgeous mountains (not as pretty as those of Scotland however) - and coastal regions that can make a grown person cry.  Countryside that inspires poets and artists - they just simply have it all.  John at sea level - sporting his new Irish haircut.  I think perhaps the fairies nipped a BIT too close - grin - give it few days John.  There were 115 steps to the top of the lighthouse - of course we had to climb each and every one.  This is a peek down from the top to the gorgeous shale coastline. Another look from the top.  This place is absolutely gorgeous.  Also from the top, a peek down at the "blow holes" - I'm thinking that perhaps that means water has actually blown up from between the rocks at these points.  I understand there is no better angling fishing to be found than here on Hook Peninsula.  We saw no fishermen today but it's common knowledge they come from far and wide to fish here.  Neither John nor I have ever been to the top of a lighthouse and it was wonderful to start with one of the oldest in the world.
	Sunday - May 2, 2004 Today we're going to take a drive out to Kilkenny - we've heard it's a fabulous little town - however, we expect that most things will be closed.  May 3rd a big "Bank Holiday" in Ireland - celebrating May Day.  Everything pretty much shuts down between Friday and Tuesday - but the drive will be nice and we may find a few attractions open.  This was a castle ruin on the way to Kilkenny that was in the middle of a horse jumping arena.  I have no history on the castle - it was just one of those Kodak moments at the side of the road.
	Sunday - May 2, 2004 This is the fountain in the center of Kilkenny Castle.  As we suspected, this is about all that IS open today - but the town of Kilkenny is adorable - we did alot of walking and had lunch here before we were on our way.
	Sunday - May 2, 2004 In the Castle Courtyard across the street from the castle was a huge Design Center - full of some very major and expensive arts and crafts.  There was an exhibition in here regarding glass blowing - and some of the glass exhibits we saw were just breathtaking.  I wrote down some names and phone numbers of craftsmen I'll contact when I return to the States.  They, of course, are all on Holiday.
	Sunday - May 2, 2004 We decided today since we were kicking around looking for things to do to return to the Emigrant Ship in New Ross and actually BOARD the ship and see what was going on with it - we heard it was worth the experience and that proved to be true.  This is John standing in front of the boat before our tour guide took us aboard.
	Sunday - May 2, 2004 As we toured below the deck, we were shown the Captain's Quarters.  Although they were not elegant, by any means, they are superior to what the passengers had to endure.  This ship was considered to be a "safe ship" - others had a much higher death toll.  The Captain of this particular ship also had some medical expertise and was better able to care for sick passengers.  I was amazed at how small this ship actually was.
	Sunday - May 2, 2004 This is the First Mate's Quarters - also very nice comparitively speaking.  The first class passengers also bunked where Captain Graves and the First Mate bunked - and they ate dinner at a table - being served three meals a day by food preparers.
	Sunday - May 2, 2004 As we gathered where the Steerage passengers bunked, they had a re-enactment of one of the actual passengers that sailed on that ship.  This woman had already lost two of her children aboard the ship and had five others with her.  In the end, both she and her husband were unable to survive the crossing and her five children were placed in an orphange when they arrived in New York.
	Sunday - May 2, 2004 The second character who came to speak with us was a single woman traveling alone who did wind up making a sucessful passage.  The trip was estimated to take 50 days - something tells me that was truly a rough estimate.  Many were never able to save the money for passage as it was very steep.
	Sunday - May 2, 2004 This was the storage area for the sacks of potatoes and flour.  PER WEEK the payment of passage included either 3-1/2 lb. of biscuit, or 3-1/2 pounds of flour, oatmeal or rice.  OR you could choose 5 pounds of potatoes.  This lady told us that you had to stand in que to cook on two cook fires that were up on deck..  That was only allowed for a very brief period of time each day - so often you wouldn't get a chance to cook anything for several days.  The Steerage passengers survived mostly on cold oatmeal mixed with water.
	Sunday - May 2, 2004 This is the storage area for the potable water.  Each FAMILY was allowed 3 quarts of water per day - issued not LESS often than twice a week.  I would have never made this crossing alive.
	Sunday - May 2, 2004 These were the bunks for the Steerage Passengers.  As you look at these, remember that one bunk does not equal one person.  These are FAMILY bunks - and often up to 8 people had to remain in these bunks for just about the entirety of the passage.  They were only allowed on deck 30 minutes a day - and although there was a latrine of sorts for the Captain, First Mate and First Class Passengers - the Steerage Passengers had to buckets up on deck that they had to use - with only 30 minutes per day allowed out of the bunks - with a hope of cooking - and possibly getting literally to the "can".
	Sunday - May 2, 2004 This was the steering wheel to the ship, of course - the deck gives you the false assumption that what's beneath is quite luxurious.  It is so NOT.
	Sunday - May 2, 2004 This is the stairway that leads to the lower decks I have already described.  Again, it gives you a false sense of luxury.  These were truly brave people who desperately needed to flee Ireland - I know I would never have had the courage.
	Sunday - May 2, 2004 As we puttered along the highway today - after the Emigrant Ship - I spotted this fabulous windmill - it looks quite old - and perhaps not even functional anymore - but it was certainly picture worthy.
	Sunday - May 2, 2004 One of my favorite subjects.  The cottages.  This one is being lived in by farmers who sell new potatoes.  I HAD to have a picture of it.  It's just about perfect.  =)
	Sunday - May 2, 2004 Another cottage in the same area - this one IS perfect - you'd never know it sits right at the edge of a busy highway.  This one I will definately have to paint.
	Sunday - May 2, 2004 We sadly must end our trip in Wexford Ireland now and head to the Dublin area.  Kathleen and Nick Murphy who own the Glenhill Bed and Breakfast have been our hosts for the past four nights.  It seems no matter where we go, I get adopted.  =)  Just PAST the Glenhill B & B is the Slaney Manor - it sits on about 10 acres of land and is extremely elegant.  This is a picture of the castle that the owner Jim built from the ground up.  Half of the castle houses a German school.  His place was gorgeous but WAY out there pricewise - which was probably good for us or we would never have met Kathleen and Nick.  =)
	Monday - May 3, 2004 This is me with Kathleen as we are preparing to leave.  She REALLY didn't want us to leave and I didn't want to go - but there will be another day for us to be together again.  These people were SO gracious and good to us.  The night before we left, I went with Nick and Kathleen out to Nick's farm - he farms about 130 acres of  Sugar Beat and grain that is sold and used in the production of Guinness.  It was a beautiful drive and the conversations were lively and quite enjoyable.  No, guests aren't usually invited out on family outtings - however, I seem to be invited out on them all - and I will always gladly go.  I love the people of Ireland and I'll take every opportunity I can to make lasting friends here.  I will miss them both and their lovely home.  As we pulled out, she came running down the driveway after us - wanting me to have copies of Irish poetry - she handed them to me through the window - said another tearful goodbye - and we wisked off to Dublin town.
	Monday - May 3, 2004 We first located the airport in Dublin - REALLY not a fun thing to do - oh my God this place is HUGE - located the car rental return and then found a B & B very CLOSE to the airport - in Swords.  We'll stay with the Heffernan's for the next two nights and fly to Germany on Wednesday.  This is a beautiful B & B called the Glenshandan Guest House.  A small suberb outside of Dublin.  After settling in we decided to get some lunch, find the internet cafe and take a coastal drive.  We left Swords and drove through Malahide, Portmarnock, Howeth and into the Summit of Howeth where there is a Cliff Walk.  You know us well enough by now to know we love cliffs.  These were hardly spectacular but it was a beautiful day and a great time for a walk.  This was the lighthouse at the bottom of the cliffs taken from the top.
	Monday - May 3, 2004 Another Kodak moment with gorgeous scenery behind me - John takes yet another shot at his favorite subject.
	Monday - May 3, 2004 This is a foggy, overcast shot of Dublin from the top of the cliffs where we had driven and stopped to hike.  Tonight we'll make our way back into Swords, find some dinner and head to the Internet Cafe for you guys.  Then I'm going to enjoy this GORGEOUS room!  AND THE BATHTUB!  WAHOOOOOOOO  =)  God Bless - see you all tomorrow!
	Tuesday - May 4, 2004 I think it's time to switch countries - we're running out of sight seeing options in Ireland.  For us - it's wonderful to just sit by the shore - so we went to Skerries today and shot some pictures of the Skerries Windmills - massive, beautiful old things.  These were for you guys - so we'd have some pictures today.  LOL.
	Tuesday - May 4, 2004 Another of the two Skerries Windmills.  In the morning we will be flying to Germany  - so we will get back to the hotel after some shopping today and repack each and every suitcase to prepare it for the flight.
	Tuesday - May 4, 2004 This is the seaport at Skerries.  We'll stop in this little fishing village and have a cup of soup and some brown bread for lunch and then head back into Swords.  Tomorrow we will bid Ireland another farewell - for awhile - and as always, we'll leave a little of our own hearts here.  We'll be back as soon as we can - beautiful land - trust that it won't be long.  As for us - we're off to Germany - through bloomin' London once again - it may be a day or two before you hear from us - please don't worry - we'll settle in our flat there and  be hitting the roads and byways (we've driven well over 2,500 miles in the PAST 20 days!) and bringing you gorgeous scenery and attractions from Munich.  We're really looking forward to the trip.  Stay well - think of us - and SOMEONE send e-mail!  =)
	Wednesday - May 5, 2004 Today John and I sadly leave Ireland behind for another day.  We hung out in the Dublin Airport awaiting our flight and I stopped to have a latte with an old familiar friend.  (Don't know how he got here - didn't see him on the plane!)  We've turned in our rental car, changed money again and we're set to explore Germany and see "Little John".  You'll see "Little John" isn't so little!

Stay tuned for more to come!
 

	Go to Home Page for this trip
	Go to Ireland - April 14 thru April 21, 2001
	Go to Scotland - April 22 thru April 24, 2001
	Go to England - April 24 thru April 25, 2004
	Go to Wales - April 25 thru April 29, 2004
	Go to Germany - May 5, 2004 thru May 15, 2004

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